After breakfast, we got on the bus to the museum at San Sabba, the rice factory that served as a concentration camp in WWII. As expected, it was quite harrowing, especially walking into the middle square where the Nazis had torched the crematorium before fleeing. The hole where the chimney had been ripped out has a small plaque and flower vase in front of it. I am not at all superstitious. However, the feeling you get walking in from the entrance is one of tremendously bad juju. The dank cells with the wooden doors and too-small bunks may be the only physical remains of the instruments of torment, but the walls are permeated with it. We did not take any photos. We read through all the exhibition materials in the museum. Keiki insisted we leave a donation to ensure all is preserved so no one forgets.

Our bus ride back to town was quiet, and at the end of the journey we walked to a gelateria. Everyone practiced ordering in Italian. We must have done reasonably well as the server smiled at us a great deal and our single scoop cones wobbled under the weight of gelato piled in.

Much of the rest of the day was spent walking, punctuated by stops for refreshments and a bit of shopping. We visited the Cattedrale di San Giusto Martire (photos in a separate post), and we watched the sunset from the harbour’s edge.

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Random garden with large wisteria vines in full flower.

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The drive leading up to the castle.

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WWI monument.

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Aperol, crisps and beer. Very acceptable.

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Triestian sunset.
nanila: wrong side of the mirror (me: wrong side of the mirror)
( Apr. 9th, 2026 01:26 pm)
One of the Trieste trip activities selected by Keiki was the Grotta Gigante. Accordingly we booked timed entry tickets, and headed out on the bus on Day 2.

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Spoiler alert: It is a gigantic cave. You have to descend 500 damp, steep, slippery steps bounded by damp, slippery metal handrails. As a person with acrophobia, I should have realised beforehand that this was going to test me, but somehow I managed to completely miss that despite it the access parameters being pretty clearly stated on the web site. I am quite proud that through much deep breathing and tight management of the pointing direction of my vision, I was able to cope with the descent and appreciate the visit.

Many cave photos )

THE END.
nanila: wrong side of the mirror (me: wrong side of the mirror)
( Mar. 16th, 2026 10:13 pm)
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I am in the middle of writing three different posts about the whirlwind of the last two weeks, but unfortunately the storm won't pass until the end of the month. In the meantime, Comet here sums things up.
nanila: (kusanagi: amused)
( Jan. 9th, 2026 08:18 pm)
20260108_185003

Remember how I was being salty about our lack of "significant" snow? Well, it all arrived at once last night. We got hammered. The picture is my view as I stepped off what would transpire was the final service to arrive at my home station last night. All the trains were cancelled today.

However, the children were furious this morning because despite the high school and the other middle school in the area being closed, their school was...open. And, cruel parents that we are, we made them attend. A third to half of their classes were missing, some of whom we know live within walking distance of the school. (Our children don't.)

I'm not sure how long we can expect to be in the doghouse, but I suspect it's going to take more than a packet of Haribo to get them to forgive us.
  1. Do you mostly drink tap, filtered, or bottled water?

    Tap water. I drink bottled water if I forget my refillable bottle, which isn’t very often.

  2. Is it safe/recommended to drink tap water where you live? If not, why?

    Yes, it is safe to drink the tap water here. It’s pretty soft water as well.

  3. What does the tap water taste/smell like where you live?

    Nothing, which is how it should be!

  4. Do you collect rainwater? If so, what do you use it for?

    Yes, we have a water butt in the back garden. We use it to water Keiki’s collection of carnivorous plants all year round, and for the indoor plants in summer.

  5. Do you/have you ever had restrictions on water use where you live? What did you have to change about your lifestyle?

    We haven’t had water restrictions here, even when a lot of the rest of the country did last summer. I have lived in places with water restrictions previously (southern California). It taught me to have short showers and/or turn off the water when, say, shampooing or conditioning my hair, which I think are generally good habits anyway. Dishwasher appliances also use less water than hand-washing dishes, which took me a while to accept but once I did, that also reduced my water consumption.


In other news, it has got quite cold here, by UK standards. Scraping off the car in the morning and ice on the roads is what defines "quite cold" here. Those, and the eternal promise of "significant" snowfall. Certainly there has been in a number of places, some of which are a handful of miles from my location, but the photo below shows the extent of the snowfall we have experienced to date!

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nanila: me (Default)
( Nov. 16th, 2025 04:49 pm)
When the conference finished in Nicosia, I took the opportunity to give myself a day and night in Larnaka, which is on the beach on the southern side of Cyprus. It's a popular holiday destination for Western Europeans wanting some winter sun, although because it's more northerly than, say, the Canary Islands, it tends to be a bit quieter, especially outside the school holidays.

I picked a hotel on the beach, and was pleasantly surprised to receive an upgrade to a sea view room with a balcony on arrival. It was too early for me to check in when I arrived, so I went to have lunch on the patio and do a bit of work. I cooled off with a small glass of the local beer (Keo). Then I had a long walk along the beachfront promenade, looking for cats.

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[Cat eventually located]

As soon as I could access my room, I went up and had a shower, applied sun cream, and went for a swim. Even at 3 PM it had started to cool off significantly - sunset was at 4:45 PM - so I was alone in the pool, and indeed poolside. I did a bunch of slow, lazy laps and got out to soak up the last of the rays. I also popped down to the beach to poke my toes into the sea.

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I got changed and went for another stroll, this time in the opposite direction, to enjoy the sunset. The promenade ran for several kilometres in both directions from the hotel, and when it petered out, the compacted sand on the beach made walking easy.

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[Big sky, fiery clouds]

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[Palm tree silhouettes]

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[Night falls]

By the time night had fallen, I was pleasantly worn out. I went to the bar, thought about sitting there, and then remembered I had a balcony. So instead, I ordered a negroni and took it up to my room. I chatted to the family. I listened to the howling of the cats. Everything went very quiet around 8:30 PM. It was too early to go to bed, tempting though it was, so I did some writing with old episodes of “House” on in the background before turning in. I set my alarm so I wouldn't miss the sunrise, which was at 6:13 AM.

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[Sunrise from the balcony]

Very glad I didn't miss the sunrise.

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[The sun emerges]

I made myself a small strong espresso and changed for breakfast. I turned up as soon as it opened (07:00) and sat outside to eat. I got chatting to another solo woman traveller, who recommended a walking holiday in northern Cyprus to me the next time I had time to myself (“probably not for the children at this stage, my dear”). She supposed I could bring the husband if I really wanted, but in her opinion I'd enjoy it more on my own. I couldn't laugh. She genuinely meant that.

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[Breakfast!]

Still chuckling, I went upstairs to change into something less roasting and had another walk toward the east, the direction I thought gave me the best chance of finding some shells. The beach was mostly claggy sand and pebbles, but I did spot a few.

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[Meow.]

I changed into my costume when I got back and went down to the sea for a swim. The tide was out and it was possible to walk nearly all the way to the breakwater without being deeper than my chest. I'm not tall. I walked out, had a little paddle around looking at the fish in the crystal clear water, and swam back to the promenade. I sat on a sunbed and enjoyed drying off in the breeze and the sun. Then I went to the pool. Again there was no one in it because it hadn't warmed up yet, so I had a long, slightly more vigorous swim and then sunned myself again.

I knew it must be getting close to checkout time so I went up to shower and attempt to prevent my hair turning into straw after all the soakings. I mostly succeeded, and was pleased I'd succeeded in not getting burnt either.

I chatted with the family, who were eating a late breakfast of dippy eggs. Keiki was excited about his rugby match. Humuhumu was being a teenage potato. Nevertheless we had a nice chat until was time for me to head downstairs, have lunch, and start the long journey home.

I caught the sunset in the airport, sprinting across the terminal to take a photo before boarding the plane.

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Due to various delays, I didn’t arrive home until well after midnight, so technically Monday morning. Nevertheless I had to get up six hour later and go to work. Astro here accurately reflects the amount of sympathy I got from the family about this.

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[Astro at home amongst the carnivorous plants and prickly cacti]
nanila: me (Default)
( Nov. 8th, 2025 07:55 am)
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[Breakfast terrace view. Hire cars have red number plates.]

I didn't have much of an opportunity to research Cyprus before I arrived. Nicosia, the host city of the conference I just attended, is divided between Greek and Turkish Cyprus. The hotel I booked - and all I did was select the cheapest one on the conference accommodation list because it’s close to the venue - is only a couple of blocks from the Green Zone, the UN policed buffer that separates the two halves of the island. It is clear to see as soon as you go around the side of the hotel. Many shops are boarded up (though the flats above them are still occupied), their gates rusted and facades crumbling.

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[Crumbling gracefully.]

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[Crumbling less gracefully.]

A few stalwart businesses keep their doors open.

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[Bold claim: “Cyprus: Irresistible for 9000 years”]

Just a couple of blocks away are shiny new high rise buildings and attractive public spaces. You could, as a tourist, choose never to stray from the wide boulevards and safe pavements.

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[Eleftheria Square by day.]

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[Walking below Eleftheria Square at night.]

Google maps certainly didn't believe I should do that, taking me on a different path to the conference venue every day, past an entirely new set of cats.

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[Noble guardian.]

There are cats *everywhere*. Food and water are left out for them on the street corners and in vacant lots. They are even more prevalent at night.

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[The Gang.]

I must have spoken to 15 different people after arriving before I encountered a Nicosian Cypriot. The first Cypriot I met was giving a talk in the firzt session I attended who of course lives in London, not Cyprus. He recommended the meze restaurant (see below). The food here is incredible. I've tried something new every day.

Georgian food.

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[All of these bean paste / beetroot things are nice, but the ones in the middle are fried aubergine wrapped around walnut paste and I could have eaten about thirty of those alone and been very happy.]

Meze.

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[This was about a quarter of the way through the meal, and they kept bringing dishes. Far too much food for two people, although PhD student and I made a heroic effort. Those little fried courgette strips on the far right were my undoing.]

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[Dessert.]

“Healthy eating” restaurant.

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[This may look heavy / oily but it was not. The pastry was delicate and crisp and the feta inside was like a little fluffy cloud. Amazing.]

Even the breakfast at my otherwise average hotel was delicious.

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[The little roll covered in sesame seeds has a sort of olive pate in it which is *chef's kiss*. I had one every morning.]

In summary, 10/10, would come back to Cyprus to Eat All The Things.
  1. What do you see when you are looking out of the window closest to you?
    The canal lock. No boats coming through, though, it’s quiet season now.

  2. Who was the last person coming into your room?
    Astro. He is now lounging on the day bed, as is his wont (example below).
    20250809_120552(0)

  3. What is the most predominant colour around you?
    A gentle pastel green. It is very soothing.

  4. What is right behind you?
    A box containing a bunch of stuff that I need to take to work. Thanks for the reminder, meme. :/

  5. What is on today's calendar sheet?
    More than I could possibly accomplish in one day, and several meetings of different types.
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I’m eschewing the Friday Five in favour of a meme that the FF for this week seems to have revived.

From left to right, top to bottom, here are the items in the photo.

  1. Rucksack. The brand is Herschel. It has a lot of internal pockets and carries a crazy amount of stuff, while also being pretty slim profile.
  2. Noise-cancelling over-ear headphones. I cannot live without these and have no idea how I survived many years of long commutes on public transport before I bought them.
  3. Coffee cup. Collapsible! Purchased from my favourite barista, a one-woman outfit operating out of my local train station.
  4. Toiletries bag. I didn’t empty this out. It contains lip gloss, medicine, hand sanitiser and hand lotion.
  5. Red pen. For correcting mistakes, many of which are my own.
  6. Tipex. See previous item.
  7. Laser pointer. An essential component of my job is lecturing and giving talks. There is never any guarantee that a laser pointer will be available alongside AV equipment, so I carry my own.
  8. Pen. A freebie from a workshop or a conference, usually.
  9. Multi-tool. This was a freebie from the Maui conference. It has lots of little swappable magnetic bits inside. I have only used the screwdriver bits so far.
  10. Paper clip. You never know.
  11. Notebook and pen. I go through notebooks (again, most of them are freebies) every couple of months. This is the latest in the series.
  12. HDMI-to-USB-C cable. There’s no HDMI port on my laptop.
  13. Two memory sticks. I borrowed the blue one from a colleague about two years ago and am now too embarrassed to return it. The minion is mine. He used to have trousers, but they fell down a stairwell and were lost in a basement.
  14. Lucky pinecone. Keiki gave me this when we were in California. I carry it in one of the outer side pockets.
  15. Packet of biscuits and a mango lollipop. Emergency food, which will probably be eaten by one of the children.
  16. Macbook Air. Laptop from Institution A, my primary employer. I also have an HP Windows laptop from Institution B, my other employer. I am mostly indifferent to the Mac / Windows debate, although I will say that the Macbook laptop’s trackpad is far better.
  17. Railcard. The train apps for railcards and tickets are notoriously unreliable, especially when you don’t have a good internet connection, so I still carry paper copies.
  18. Glasses case. At the moment these contain my sunglasses, which are prescription and which I sometimes wear in winter to cut the glare from headlights when I’m driving. My untinted varifocals are usually on my face.
  19. Universal adapter, USB cables, and a handful of coins. I prefer to be equipped to take advantage of charging points whenever I can, especially since I travel so much.
  20. Fan. From the Louvre, featuring the Mona Lisa. Very good for public transport.


Please link your “What’s in my bag?” posts in the comments, especially if I haven’t commented on them.
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